|
At the Luang
Phrabang boundary
As we are now
in the Luang Phrabang territory, Nan officials want
to sent the carriers back, and as I have not the money to pay them,
I have to keep them for a cou[ple more days until I meet Luang
Pu Wat Satan, who is coming from M. Sai. After some altercation
this is agreed to. The boundary of Luang Phrabang and Nan
is along the Nam Ta from the Nam Se. It then recrosses
the Nam Ta, and follows a line which is always a cause of
friction between Nan and Luang Phrabang. Nan
asserts his claim to the Nam Ta, while Luang Phrabang,
on the other hand, says that Nan's presence in the valley
of the Nam Ta is an encroachment. The route passes over low
hills, and in whatever direction one Looks there are evidences of
extensive cultivation, and the inhabitants seem to be very numerous.
The route is an excellent one; it passes through settlements from
Sipsawng Punna and Sipsawng Chu Tai. I met numbers
of people carrying salt in the form of bricks about nine inches
by three by two and a half, which appears very good, and is brought
from Baw Luang and Baw He.
On the 4th
of February I made a traverse of seventeen miles. This is an exceptional
length, but I was all day at it. The distances are very close, but
on account of the jungle the readings of the compass were necessarily
numerous, taking up much time. The path was easy. I encamped at
Pa Pung, the bee-hive rock, which is a conspicouus lime-rock,
a couple of hundred feet high; it marks the junction of the road
from M. La of Sipsawng Punna. Not far from this are
Kamuks working at the lead-mines.
The first European
to enter Sipsawng Punna was the late General Mcleod, who
was in Chieng Rung in 1855, having been sent there from Maul
Mein by the Indian Government to inquire into the facilities
for trade. Although it is about forty years since he was there,
the condition of the country is pretty much the same-that is, anarchy
prevails; so that the Chief last October was obliged to fly from
Chieng Hung to some place in the direction of Smo. The chiefs
were appointed by Ava and China, but since the troubles at Mandalay,
this State has had its share of confusion, though not as much so
as the other Shan states, owing to its proximity to China. The
Mekawng, as a boundary between rival claims, even at that time
caused a dispute. General Mcleod wrote: "The Burmese next nominated
Chao Thi Wan's second son, Maha Wang. These two chiefs,
namely, Maha Noi and Maha Wang, ruled at the same
time, one on the left bank and the other on the right bank of Me
Khong; but this rule was not peaceful; there was constant warfare
carried on between them; and though Maha Noi obtained the
assistance of Luang Phrabang and Muang Nan, Maha
Wang proved succesful . . . . During the hostilities above spoken
of neither the Chinese nor Burmese aided either party. On the disappearance
of Maha Noi the Chinese confirmed Maha Wang." In another
place General McLeod writes: "The Court of Ava supports Maha
Wang 's son, and the Chinese do so too."
This all shows
that Ava and China are the only countries concerned in the Sipsawng
Punna. It also shows the near relations between Chieng Tung
and Chieng Hung which have been increasing up to the present
day, so that the interests of the one are involved with those of
the other. General McLeod writes: "It is not likely that the
Iso'Boa of Kieng Tong especially (whose daughter is betrothed
to Mha Wang's son), and those of Kiang Khieng and Muang
Kheng, would give their counternance to the existing states
of affairs by the presence here of their officers. These officers
attend all the deliberations which take place, and watch whatever
is passing." The present Chief of Chieng Rung is brother-in-law
of the Chief of Chieng Tung, and Chieng Tung has considerable
influence over the affairs of Sipsawng Punna.
It is not easy
to ascertain what are the twelve States of Sipsawng Punna.
The tribes of Shans living in Sipsawng Punna are known
by the name of Lu, which I believe is a Burmese word for
man, and excellent fellows they are. Originally there must have
been twelve divisions, the chief of all residing at the capital,
Chieng Hung, or Aleve, on the Nam Kawng. One
difficulty arises from the frequent use of M. La, which has
several intonations, each meaning a different place.
On the Nam
U, the eastern watershed of which is the boundary between Sipsawng
Punna and Sipsawng Chutai, the northern watershed being
the boundary between China and Sipsawng Punna , are U, comprising
U-Nua and U-Tai, where salt is collected, and Chieng
Tong-this last comprises the districts at the head of the Nam
U, in which are the famous tea-gardens of I-Pang and
I-Neu. The gardens are entirely under the management of Chinese,
who are governed by officials elected among themselves. The Lus
have their own governors, who hold their commissions from the Chief
at Chieng Hung. On the east of the Me Kawng there
are five States--La-Nau, La-Toi, Pong, Hing
and Chieng Hong, and U. La Tai is near M.
Sing, and the district is famous for its salt wells. The best
well is called Baw He, and the salt is only about ten feet
below the surface.
On the west
of the Me Kawng there are seven States Hai and Ling,
Wang and Pong, Pan and Chieng Lo, Ngot
and Ong, Che Mang, Long. The capital, Chieng
Hung, or Aleve, has jurisdiction east and west of the
Mekawng; the western divisions being Kon, Ham,
and Hun, the eastern divisions being Num and Wen.
I met Luang
Pu Wat Satan, who brought with him money, and enabled me to
pay off the carriers from the Nan jurisdiction. Smiles also
turned up, connecting his traverse from Sai with mine. We pushed
on, and encamped at Ban Kaw Noi. The path was an easy one,
and much used, passing over hills with settlements of Meo,
Yao, and Kamuks in every direction. We met a number
of ponies and mules, laden with raw cotton, on their way to Yiwnan.
At this village there is a guard station; and whatever may be said
of the administration of Luang Phrabang, the people certainly
enjoy a sense of security foreign to them eight years ago, and from
chaos the Commissioner has established systematic order, which is
evident wherever one may go in the province of Luang Phrabang
. It is said the people are overtaxed. I understand there is
a poll-tax of four rupees on all adult males, and no other taxes;
and while corvee labour and gambling are abolished, the consumption
of opium and spirits is being controlled.
On the 7th
of March, at about 8 a.m., we went into the M. Sai . I took
up my quarters in a wat, on a small hill, which was cool and well
protected from the glare. I received a letter from Phya Ritisong,
the Commissioner of Luang Phrabang, and the old Chao Ratcha
Wong, the eldest son of the Chief of Luang Phrabang,
whom the King has since made Chao Luang of Luang Phrabang.
Both letters were very kind, for that the Siamese can be when they
choose.
The Chao
is an old friend of mine, and we travelled together for about six
months in the season of 1885-86, when energetic measures werebeing
renewed for driving the Chinese bands of robbers from Siam.
They had been driven out in 1871, and almost totally destroyed,
but returned in larger numbers, and were unfortunately not energetically
dealt with.
I had the pleasure
of knowing Phya Ritisong shortly after joining the Siamese
service. He was closely connected with Phya Surisak in the
formation and reorganization of an army. I had met him at Luang
Phrabang, and again in December of 1886 at M. Teng ,
where my opinions in matters in general being asked, and being found
in every way diametrically opposed to what was taking place, I certainly
made no friends.
I had written
to the Commissioner of Luang Phrabang from Chieng Mai,
as, on account of a certain amount of friction during my previous
acquaintance, I anticipated opposition when working in the country
under his administration. The result was a most agreeable surprise.
Never since I travelled in Siam did I meet with such excellent
assistance and kindly consideration. No matter where I went in the
province of Luang Phrabang it was the same. I was not oppose
my plans, and for the first time after many years I felt a pleasure
in the work. I knew the Commissioner belonged to the anti-foregn
clique which does not believe in foreigners being in positions of
trust, but he dealt with a disagreeable fact in an agreeable manner.
The mail also came in neatly packed by the postal authorities at
Luang Phrabang.
Smiles had
cleared a conspicous hill to the north and filled in the details
of work surrounding Sai; to the south-east was another sharp
peak, Dawi Hipi, overlooking the rice-plain, which I went
up and cleared. The rice-fields of M. Sai afforded accommodation
for the measurement of a base-line of about a mile in length, and
this Smiles measured very carefully. It was necessary to connect
Sai with the triangulation being carried to Luang Phrabang.
The haze was very thick, and even on favourable days a distance
of about four miles was all that one could see. The time was occupied
in cutting lines, and attempts were made for stars, but the haze
was so dense that nothing could be seen. On one night, when the
stars were twinkling feebly through the haze, I made an attemptto
take observations , but there was a perfect plaque of insects which
the men from carrying on the work. I had cleared a small hill of
jungle, and disclosed a small pagoda the existence of which was
not known.
Muang Sai
was remarkable for the excellence of its iron ore; a small hill
called Pu Lek (the iron hill), is said to be nothing but
iron, and further down the river, below its junction with the Nam
Pak, is M. La, from which place large quantities of salt
are procured. The salt-fields are in the bed of the river, and of
course can be worked only in the dry season. The salt appears oozing
up from below, and the surface earth is gently scraped and taken
off in baskets to bamboo sheds. There it is thrown into tanks, constructed
of brick and mortar, with bamboo pipe at the bottom. Water is thrown
in, and the brine passes through the bamboo to trench cut in the
ground,and plastered with a kind of clay excellent for the purpose.
the bamboos are cut in two, between the knots, which form the ends,
and the brine is poured into them. They are then placed over the
fire for evaporation. The fire-place is built of boulders with a
casing of brick about fifteen feet long, two feet deep, and one
foot broad, the bottom is inclined at an angle of about 15 . The
bamboos are placed side by side, along the whole length, and the
fire-wood is placed at one end only. One furnace produces in one
day about one hundred pounds of salt, which was sold at Luang
Phrabang for three rupees eight years ago. At that time M.
La had to send to Luang Phrabang three hundred pounds
of salt as the annual tribute for the privelage of working the salt-beds.
The water as it flows through the bamboo is tasted, as a means of
ascertaining when the salt is exhausted. The earth is then taken
out of the brick-and -mortar tank and spread over the salt-fields
again. It then becomes impregnated once more with salt.
M. La
is on the Nam Pak, at the source of which is Dawi Lakkhan,
where there are supposed to be stone pillars marking the boundary
between Sipwang Punna and Luang Phrabang. It is said
that the stone pillars were removed by the Lus so that they might
with greater boldness croos the watershed. Lead and silver are brought
from the mountains, so that there is something more in the apellation
of M. Ngun (silver town) than a mere name. The town is four
or five miles from the hill, and the road to the salt-wells passes
directly over it. I sent some Siamese assistants to make a more
detailed examination of the place. The towns which eight years ago
were deserted are now peopled by settlers from Sipsawng Punna.
On the 22nd
of March I left Sai, and on my way met a little girl about
five years old toddling about alone. The little thing seemed hungry,
and I brought her on to Ban Nahuang, giving her over to the
care of the head-man, with twenty rupees. I gave her a meal of rice
and plantains, and then her face was washed in the stream. This
process she objected to strongly. Her parents, who were Meo,
whilst moving from one village to another, had abandoned the little
thing, which seemed to be an idiot. It is very likelythe poor mother
fell ill, and could not carry the child further, and as the road
was much frequented they left it to be brought on by a passer-by,
meaning, I have no doubt, to seek it again in better times.
Smiles is following
the route to M. Nga with a careful traverse, which he will
connect with a conspicous peak near M. Nga. On this peak
a signal basket will be erected. I am following the route to M.
Benn and where the path crosses the watershed of the Namu
I follow the ridge and ascend the peak Nawn Chang, which
is seen from M. Sai. On the 24th of March rain fell; this
was a good sign, as there was a chance of the impenetrable haze
being cleared away. To the south-east about two miles is a ridge
somewhat higher than Nawn Chang, shutting out the view. I
clearedthe southern extremity, but Sai is not visible from
it, so that peaks are used for our operations.
On one occasion,
whilst returning from the south-east peak to the camp, and in the
darkness I missed the path. I caused much surprise to some Meo
whose village I came to. In one large house were a great number
of men, women, and children all huddled togather; but as they knew
the whereabouts of the camp I soon persuaded one of them to show
me the path. In a hort time, I found the way again, and although
drenched to the skin, as if I had had a bath, I reached the camp
in excellent spirits, as I felt certain that the haze would clear
off and I should be able to carry the work to a satisfactory conclusion.
The 28th of
March was a beautiful day, and I was able to see long distances.
On the 30th I had finished taking observations on Ki Nang,
the southeast peak. On this peak was what seemed to be a tomb of
a Meo, but as the Meo repudiated the idea of a tomb
being there, I regretted that my spirit of curiosity did not lead
me to a close examination of it.
There is a
very fine peak to the south, distant about fifteen miles, which
I must clear. Of course nobody knows anything about it, but as I
do not want to retrace my steps with the peak before me, I push
on, following the devide of the Nam Nga and Nam Benng.
The question of supplies is an anxious one, and as in the distance
I can see some Yao villages, and perceive traces of many
others, this decides me to keep to the "devide." It was
well I did so, for I had not gone more than five or six miles when
I found myself in the midst of well-to-do Yao villages, with
ponies and goats, and I struck an excellent path leading in the
direction of the peak I wished to ascend. On the way I met a jolly
Yao bullock-driver, who was whistling and singing as he went,
driving his one solitary bullock before him. Hearing this, my guide
whipped out of his bag a jew's-harp in order to show that he was
not behind the Yao in musical talent. It was amusing; I little
thought to hear the jew's-harp there, and the guide's bag was the
last place in which I should have looked for one.
Presently we
came to a halt, and I entered into negotiations with some Yao
to guide me to the peak, which was within sight. On its slopes I
could distinguish old clearings, so that I was sure they must know
a favourable path or two. I also advanced money for the purchase
of rice to be delivered to me on the mountain. I had no reason to
regret the confidence I placed in the men, for the rice was duly
and faithfully delivered. We moved on in a heavy shower of rain,
and passed the sites of some abandoned villages; but though we had
completed a long day's march, we were not near the hills, and all
trace of them was lost in the dense forest. The next morning we
ascended a peak, but heavy clouds and mists hung about, and I could
not feel sure of the whereabouts of the peak, although I knew it
was not far off. Of course the guides said there was no prospect
of the heavy mist clearing, with two or three men I started to recon-noitre.
I had not gone far when I was satisfied we were not on the highest
point; before I returned to camp in the evening I found the peak,
and the next morning we all moved off. The tents were pitched near
the top, and we began cutting the trees, which were of enormous
growth, and covered a considerable space, as the top, was a broad
flat of upwards of two hundred feet square. On one of the trees
there were recent evidences of the ravages of a bear on a bee-hive
which was in the hollow of the tree; the bear by means of his claws
and teeth had torn the wood asunder and got at the hive.
The 8th of
April was a glorious morning, and the hill was cleared of all the
trees, thus affording a magnificent view. I felt the greatest possible
pleasure as I traced one after the other the points of triangulation
as laid out to Luang Phrabang, which were cleared and observed
by the young Siamese assistant, Luang Di Sah (now Phra Sarisdi).
There were ten prominent mountains, each with its signal trees,
and basket signal, even to the highest limestone cliff overlooking
Luang Phrabang. It was splendid work, involving great hardships
and labour, and the observations were intellegently and carefully
made, some of the points necessitating three visits on account of
the dense haze. A great number of points were laid down, and the
plane-table reconnaissance was neatly performed.
The course
of the Nam U could be traced by the numerous pinnacles of
limestone crags along its course; notably Pa Sang, which
rises to a height of 6,110 feet above sea-level. Pa Kai Taw,
near the Nam Kan, which has the same reputation in Luang
Phrabang that Chieng Dao has in Chieng Mai, stood
out like a needle, the top being 7,360 feet above sea-level, but
it was to be incontestably proved that this peak also, like its
compeer, must resign its claim to be the highest mountain.
The work on
Parat, or Pu Kwang Muang, being completed, two signal
trees were left standing, one of which is over seventy feet high.
Some of the Kamuks had fallen ill, and this was attributed
to the mountain-spirit seated on that tree and brooding disconsolately
over the loss of all the other trees. To propitiate this spirit
a fowl had to be procured for sacrifice, otherwise the men would
have made up their minds to die.
As I was unable
to see the hill that Smiles cleared, and on which he had erected
signal and closed a traverse, I was obliged to clear another hill
from which it was visible and which connectedit with Kinang.
There were numerous mushrooms on the path, which afforded much amusement
for the men, who busied themselves in collecting them. My provisions
were running short, and so by the aid of the ever-ready Yao
we struck a path which led to M. Nga . My little fox-terrier
added to our difficulties by giving birth to a small family, for
the bringing up of which elaborate arrangements had to be made.
Thunder-storms now became frequent. when we struck the Nam Se,
a tributary of the Nam Nga, we fell in with Kamuk
settlements, and the Yao guides returned to the mountains,
as they felt the heat of the low valleys.
On the 12th
of April we reached M. Nga, where there are some rice-fiels,
but the people depend chiefly on the mountain-side cultivation.
I paid off the people of M. Sai, and the next day took a
small boat and went down the Nam Nga. At some points on the
river my guide tells me attempts have been made to find salt, as
there were traces of it to be discovered. As the interior of Indo-China
is land-locked, a bed of salt is a great treasure, and the salt
localities are well known.
At Ban Sobp
Ya there was a very shady spot, inviting us to rest, but the
head-man of the village was apprehensive concerning my interference
with the spirits, as the village cemetery was in the bamboo clumps
hard by. The custom of the people is to cast the dead bodies of
the poorer portion of the population into a ravine; they are then,
during heavy rains, carried down into the rivers. At the junction
of the Me Ngao with the Me Nga, I wait for the carriers.
The Me Ngao is a larger stream than the Me Nga, and
continues its course in the same direction, nevertheless, the united
streams are called the Me Nga; the names must have been given
on account of the town of M. Nga.
When the carriers
come we ascend a hill, Pu Loi; the heat is intense, the path
going through a jungle of high grass, and as there is not a breath
of air, the atmosphere is suffocating. Pu Loi, cleared of
trees, was used as an interpolated point. I was also able to decide
without hesitation the route to be taken to one of Luang Di Sah's
peaks, on which I must take observations for Parat, and thus
unite the work better. The hill I decide on ascending is Nang
Wang, across the Nam Kawng. I sent a letter to Smiles,
who was patiently waiting at B. Latan to go on to Luang
Phrabang , where we intended to meet.
The different
villages with the prefix Lat were market-places in the good
old days. The Nam Kawng here has a broad bed, but the water
flows in a narrow channel, dashing along over enormous rocks glistening
like coal. The coal-like appearance is due to a deposit which in
different parts of the Me Kawng assumes different hues, at
one time black, at another various shades of green, then red. What
the secret of the colouring process is it is difficult to say, as
the rocks are all of the same nature.
I ascended
the Nang Wang, and arrived just in time to have our tents
pitched before there was a great downpour of rain. During the night
there was a heavy storm with thunder and lightning. The rain flowed
through my tent like a stream; with difficulty the tent was kept
from being blown over, and the creaking of the trees was not cheerful,
but I was glad to think of a good view in prospect after all the
rain. The next day it was still raining, and in the night we had
another storm, but not like the first, and I was better prepared
for it.
On the 20th
of April I had hoped to get a good view, but the people, who were
anxious about their rice-clearings, have begun firing the old trees
cut some months previously; they keep the fires up by night as well
as by day. However, Parat and other points are connected,
and I am only anxious for Nawn Chang and Ki Nang,
which are not absolutely necessary, but would give the work a more
finished appearance. In the afternoon Luang Phrabang, that
is in February, 1887, it wanted no prophet to foretell that a great
trouble was about to befall Luang Phrabang; it was as evident
as that rain will fall, when thick clouds are about with thunder
and lightning; and it was in June of the same year that the unfortunate
people were driven from their homes and the place was pillaged by
the Haw from their homes and the place was pillaged by the
Haw from M. Teng. The old Chief, like an old Roman
Senator, wanted to die in his home rather than abandon Luang
Phrabang, but a few of his remaining sons obatined a Burmese
guard from the Burmans, who had been settled in Luang Phrabang
many years, and they hustled the old man into a small boat. He was
fired on and his son shot dead before his eyes. Below Luang Phrabang
the old man was met by M. Pavie and the Siamese Commissioner.
Whilst watching
the settling sun glittering on the spires of the pagodas and the
gilded mouldings of the wats of Luang Phrabang, with the
noble Me Kawng flowing before it, our musings were of a melancholy
kind, for we knew what troubles the people had gone through. Even
during the last month, four or five hundred people died at Luang
Phrabang from some bowel compliant, and in the foregoing month
the place had been burnt, so altogather their cup of bitterness
is pretty full.
The horned
enoplotrupis, which the late Mr. Bates was anxious to secure, both
blue and black, is very plentiful on this mountain, and the men
amuse themselves by catching these insects, in the evenings particularly.
This species of beetle was discovered not very long ago in Burmah
by an Italian naturalist, Signor Feaan. The species being numerous
and dung-feeders, I wondered where they could come from, and I was
informed that rhinoceros were plentiful on the mountain, though
I did not come across any traces of them.
The basket
signal is an excellent one, the pole is the trunk of a tree let
into the ground for some ten or twelve feet. It was great labour
replacing it, but it will stand for twenty years.
On the 28th
of April I went to Luang Phrabang, and while waiting for
a boat to cross over, had time to take in the altered situation
since I last saw the town. Near me on the right bank of the riveris
a large wooden building painted in red and blue, and a bamboo fence
inclosing a large area, in which are several houses. This is the
French Vice-Consulate, which was established after the treaty negotiated
with Siam was signed, but not ratified by the French Chamber.
The treaty was meant as a counterpoise to the English treaty about
Chieng Mai, the difference being that England had thousands
of subjects in the one place, while France had not a soul in the
other.
Across the
river, where the chiefs, the Siamese Commissioners, and the bulk
of the people live, the whole has a new look. The pagoda on the
hill, Tat Chawm Si, has an old appearance, and while I am
looking at it, the familiar drums and gongs hard by ring out their
harmonies indicating a change of watch. Night and day, at regular
intervals of three hours, the watches have been marked in this way
for ages, and it is well to see one custom at least that has been
clung to in spite of all changes. The small hill a couple of hundred
feet high has not altered much in appearance, except perhaps that
there is more jungle and the old Chinese-looking Salas are, if anything,
going fast to decay.
In the direction
of the old Chief's house is a massive brick building not completed.
There are also the usual thatch-roofed houses, but they look new,
as a couple of months ago the whole place was destroyed by fire.
The place looks bare, as before it was one mass of cocoa-nut and
areca palms, which have all been cut down at the same time. There
have been some efforts to make streets, and immediately opposite
is an excellent landing-place, beyond which a good straight road
leads to the Siamese quarter. On the side of the landing is a post-office,
and a sign-board with large letters in Siamese and English. I am
sure Siam Royal Post Office in large letters cannot please
the French, but as in Luang Phrabang, so all over Siam,
English is used as the supplementary language, and in official documents
many English expressions have now become recognized words.
The breadth
of the river here is 1,770 feet. In a little while Luang Di Sah
came across. I was glad to see the young fellow, and congratulated
him on the excellence of the work he had performed. The Commissioner,
Phya Ritisong, was also kind enough to come over and welcome
me to Luang Phrabang , and I took the opportunity of heartily
thanking him fro the kind assistance he had given to make the work
successful. We went across the Me Kawng, and I took up my
residence in very comfortable quarters, which were built for a school.
The floor was cement, and the sides and roof were of bamboo, neatly
painted white, while the posts were painted yellow. The paints were
obtained in Luang Phrabang, white, yellow, ochre, cobalt,
and mineralreds being plentiful.
Smiles, who
arrived seven days previously, is looking well, and all the young
Siamese assistants are doing well. The Commissioner has been good
enough to provide all of us with excellent accommodation. We called
and saw the old Chief, who is now very feeble. The old man has gone
through a great deal of trouble, and is now shelved on account of
age.
It is strange
that those who in Siam affect a great anti-foreign feeling,
looking upon foreigners as enemies of this country, are the very
ones who, when they have opportunities, so arrange things as to
prepare the way for the very annexation they dread. They seem in
all they do to be guided by the principle of evil. Those whom they
encourage and cherish are usually the worst scoundrels of the country-side.
The good are not worth taking account of, as there is nothing to
fear from them. The power of evil-doing is more apparent to them,
and in their intense anxiety to serve their country-for after all
one must credit them with patriotism-they unfortunately believe
in using evil means. In Luang Phrabang we have a mild Republicanism,
initiated, whether out of compliment to France, or with the idea
of preventing French interference, it is difficult to say. But each
purpose fails equally, and there is every evidence to show that
the French authorities are watching the course of event with satisfaction.
The old Chief
being shelved, his eldest son is Chao Luang, and his second
son, the Chao Ratcha But, is superseded by another Chao,
the son of the late Chao Hobahat. The old Chief being shelved,
his eldest son is Chao Luang, and his second son, the Chao
Ratcha But, is suspended by another Chao, the son of
the late Chao Hobahat. The late Chao Hobahat was murdered
when the Haw from M. Teng sacked Luang Phrabang,
and as a reward the son succeeded to his father's position. Chao
Ratcha, being evidently timid and foolish, was set aside. But
as these are positions to which men are born, the setting aside
of a prince for being stupid is a long step in the deriction of
Republicanism. It is, moreover, perfectly impossible that the changes
can be popular with the people, or with the old Chief, who naturally
does not like seeing his son set aside. The Siamese mistakes of
administration are all in one direction. They are equally afraid
of English and French encroachments, and in their nervous anxiety
to meet the difficulties mistake are made. If some arrangement could
be made in such a manner as to convince the Siamese that no country
would enterfere with their independence, then I feel sure they would
carry on government on just lines. Whatever mistakes have been made
are entirely due to what they thought an interference with the independence
of Siam, when unfortunately the same individual became accuser,
judge, and executioner.
Whatever may
be said of the Siamese, naturally they are of a kind disposition.
Their ideas of right and wrong are pretty much the same as those
of Europeans, but the political necessities that arise cause errors
they would be glad to have done with. We called on the Chao Luang.
He looks old, but as he made the same remark concerning me, I suppose
time is unconsciously stealing on. I was glad to see him; he seemed
the same good-natured, quiet man as ever. Returning to my comfortable
quarters, I made arrangements for the observations for latitude
and azimuth, at the golden pagoda on the small hill Tat Chawmsi.
There was great satisfaction in feeling that the position of Luang
Pharabang was connected may have been a rough-andready method,
and not geodetic, but the country through which it was carried was
every rough, and I leave the results with perfect confidence to
the future, feeling certain that when precise tests are applied
the general accuracy will be proved.
Smiles is busy
preparing a base line over two miles long, which when measured was
found to be only a couple of inches different from the value brought
down by triangulation. The small base lines leave little room for
discrepancies, but they show that the work is accurate enough for
all our purposes.
We called on
Dr. Massie, the French Consul, and M. Cavilliori. I met Dr. Massie
with M. Vach at Chieng Senn, and found them very interesting
persons. Dr. Massie is an enthusiastic geologist. From the pavilion
in font of the French Consulate, on the right bank of the Me
Kawng, a beautiful view of Luang Phrabang can be had,
particularly in the evening, when the golden hues of the setting
sun light up the mountains. The river is wide and very still. One
gets a long view of it, and the mountains coming down to the river
look as though they enclosed it, giving it the appearance of a lake.
A pagoda here and there add much to the beauty of the scene. There
are some pagodas with domes, said to be very ancient. There is a
story that one was built over a lime and guava fruit-tree that could
speak.
On the right
bank is a small hill called Nang Mere (the lady Mary). A
legend says that someone of this name when she died was changed
into the hill. It is said that the outline of a woman in a reclining
position can be traced on the hill, the best time to distinquish
it being between sunset and dark. On the left bank of the river
is the impression of her foot. It is said to be that her right foot,
and was the last step she took, the other being across the Nam
Kawng, one thousand yards distant.
To the east
is Pu Suang, at the foot of which the lonely traveller, Charles
Muhot, died. His motive was a peaceful and scientific one, and the
people remember him kindly. The Lao have an old-standing
superstition about this hill. They say that on top there is a great
treasure, which is guarded by dragons. The dragons have been seen
rising over the hill struggling together even in the present day.
Any on that attempts to go to the top of the hill is certain to
die, and that is why Charles Muhut died. He made the the attempt,
contracted fever, and died at the foot of the hill. It is needless
to say many have been up the hill without any serious results, nor
did they find any treasure. A basket signal is now in the top, but
the peak is in no way equal to the sharp peak Chang Me, which is
one the principal points of the triangulation, and lies to the south.
An opening
offered itself for bettering Luang Di Sah's prospects by
his obtaining a position in the Ministry of the Interior, and though
I was very sorry to lose his assistance in the work, this was no
reason for standing in the way of the young man's promotion. With
regret, therefore, I allowed him to return to Bangkok, when
on account of his hard and faithful work he was promoted to be Secretary
in the Ministry of the Interior, and received the title of Phra
Sarisdi, besides being decorated with a Commanship of the Crown.
I was informed that I was to be recalled to Bangkok, but
considering the orders I took with me Kras with the great seal for
the Chief Commissioners of Chieng Mai, Luang Phrabang,
Nawng Kai, Bassae, and Phartom Bong , and Kras
with the small seal for my own personal use. The wording of each
was presumed to be the same, and the following was the substance
of the orders:
"The Minister
of the North to the Commisioner, Governors, and petty officials
of provinces."
"Royal
commands have been received that Survey officers must proceed to
the Boundary, and must make surveys in the following provinces:
Nakawn Sawan, Pitsunalok, Pichai, Tak,
Chieng Mai,Tern, Nakawn Lampang, Nan,
Luang Phrabang, Nawngkai, Puann, Nakawn
Chummpasak, Ubonratchatani, Phratabawng, Nakawnratchasima,
Sakon Nakawn, Nakawn Panom, Ta-Uten, and all
the smaller provinces along the frontier under the jurisdiction
of the Ministry of the Interior. When the Survey officers arrive
let all the officials give every assistance in procuring transport,
labour, and provisions, and as the Survey officers have been provided
with funds for the prosecution of the Surveys, let everything be
paid for according to the custom of the country, with the exception
of provisions for menial. Let that be provided by the Government."
The order covered
a great deal of ground, and as I had not half performedmy task I
could not very well return without special instructions, and for
these I was return waiting. We occupied our time in preparing the
computations of the work, and as I was feeling somewhat indidposed
we went up Pu Kum Kao, a splendid hill overlooking Luang
Phrabang. I ramained there for a week, and though it rained
nearly the whole time, the atmosphere was very pure, and one feft
the better for having been there.
The Chao
Luang and the Commissioner came up and remained for a few days.
It was a great undertaking for the Chao Luang, who is no
light weight, but I think he enjoyed himself, and if he could avoid
the exertion of walking up would go there frequently. I suggested
to him to have a road made to Kum Kao Noi, which could easily
be done, and then he could ride a pony to the top, where he might
erect houses, and every year take a change, together with the old
Chief.
When we retured
the Me Kawng was a magnificent sight. It was full to the
banks, having risen more than fifty feet above low-water mark. The
water was red, and the people were out in boats catching the drift
wood, which was floating in every direction. The Nam Khan
was also full, and near the mouth there was no flow. The water remained
banked up by the Nam Kawng, which rushed madly past.
My first visit
to Luang Phrabang was in 1884, but in the early sixties the
Siamese Government sent Europeans to Luang Phrabang to make
surveys. M. Garnier on his journey up the Me Kawng, which
produced such good results, met one of them, an Englishman. On that
famous journey he also reported that along the Me Kawng from
Sieng Trung upwards, there was not the slightest connection
between the Governments of Annam and the Me Kawng. I was
then accompanied with Mr. L. J. Leonowens and Mr. George Bush. In
those days Luang Phrabang was a cluster of huts hidden away
in a forest of areca and cocoa-nut palms, and abounding in marshes
whence an unpleasant odour arose. While we were sitting in the old
Chief's house, a tumble-down wooden shanty, a concert of bull-frogs
was being kept up under the house. Leonowens and I, with an escort
of thirty volunteer soldiers, made a hasty run over Puann
so as to ascertain how far there was truth in the Chinese brigards
(Haw) having established themselves in that country, and
Bush, with the Siamese Commissioner, went on to Luang Phrabang
to arrange quarters. When we arrived at Luang Phrabang, to
our great horror, the camp had been pitched in as bad a place as
possible, and was arranged in a precisely opposite manner to the
directions we had given as to its position. The rains had set in,
and such heavy requisitions had been made on the inhabitantsfor
building the dreadful huts, that we felt it would be impossible
to begin all over again.
Other parts of the journey:
|
