It is believed
that the Chinese were the first to develop the technique
of producing silk fabric some 4,000 years ago. The secret was
closely guarded for centuries and gave rise to the overland
trade route known as the Silk Road. Exportation of the
cocoons or the hiring from abroad of craftsmen skilled in the
art of making silk was banned. But eventually some cocoons
with the information about the technique were smuggled out of
China.
In China at
the time of Confucius, it seems that silk was, curiously enough,
cheaper and more easily obtainable than cotton-type fabrics.
To the contrary, in most other countries silk was long regarded
as being suitable only for royalty, nobles and celebrities. It
stood out among all fabrics and has retained its unrivalled position
as Queen of Textiles up to the present.
Archaeological
evidence found among the relics of Ban Chiang (a human
settlement site in today's northeast Thailand dating back in it's
origin some 5,000 to 7,000 years and existing probably for several
thousand years) proves that the people who lived in the Northeastern
part of Thailand were already using silk cloth in prehistoric
times. Though it is not clear whether the silk used then was of
the Mutmee type, there are indications that some of it
was; the typical patterns of Mutmee silk are among the most ancient
patterns to appear on cloth, and these patterns have great similarity
to the ancient cloth designs found in Russia and many other countries.
While the
people living in Thailand several thousand years back were ethnically
not Thais, the Thai silk home industry nevertheless dates
back many hundreds of years. Manufacture of silk was for a long
time an important traditional occupation of Thai girls. Following
the steps of their mothers and their mothers' mothers, Thai maidens
used to rear their own silkworms, produce fibers and weave fabrics
for their families. The masterpiece of their weaving was naturally
their own wedding costume.
The caterpillar
(silkworm) spins a yellow cocoon consisting of up to 1000m (3300ft)
of reelable filament. The caterpillar, after stuffing itself with
mulberry leaves, weaves the cocoon around itself as a protection
during its metamorphosis into a moth. The filaments from tens
of thousands of cocoons are reeled together into strands making
raw silk for the spinning and production of the fabric.
As Thai silk
is hand-woven from hand-spun pure silk yarn, the
resulting fabric is naturally uneven and knobby
in texture. The weaving is done with great skill and care taken
to retain a matching consistency. Authentic Thai silk cannot be
mass-produced; no weaver can substitute for another's labour without
damaging the yield.
Thai silk
does not undergo mechanized finishing treatment. In its natural
form, it catches light more effectively, giving off a lively
glow of rich colors. It is costly if compared to other textiles
because of the care taken to preserve standards and consistency.
Thai silk
can be washed only with the mildest soap, then rinsed in
tepid water as many times as necessary, but never wrung.
In the last rinsing, a spoon of clear white vinegar can
be added to retain the original luster. It should be allowed to
drip dry in the shade.
Under no circumstances
should Thai silk be put into a washing machine. Thai silk
should be ironed on the inside just before it is dry or later
only with a damp cloth over it.
It is recommended
to shop for Thai silk only in stores that carry the approval signs
either of the Thai Silk Association or the Tourism Authority
of Thailand, as only in these places is the quality of Thai
silk guaranteed.
