Philippines / Metro Manila / Sightseeing / Intramuros

Intramuros (Spanish within walls) bounded by the Pasig River, Taft Ave, P. Burgos St, and Bonifacio Drive with an area of 60 hec-tares (148 acres) was the Spanish capital of the Philippines. For centuries, only Spaniards and mestizos were allowed to live within the walls. The gates were locked to pure Filipinos (called Indios at that time) who lived in the area which today is Rizal Park, and to Chinese, the Sangley, who lived in the Parian which today is Mehan Gardens between theMetropolitan Theater and Manila City Hall.

Construction of Intramuros was begun in 1574 by Miguel Lopez de Legazpi, according to the plans of the Jesuit father Antonio Sedenio. The wall, 4km (2.5mi) around its perimeter, was started in 1584 by Governor Santiago de Vero. It took six years to finish the fortress walls and surrounding moat built to protect the Spanish from the natives. Intramuros protected not only the body but also the soul of the Spanish. There were five chapels and seven churches: San Fran-cisco, Santo Domingo, San Ignacio, (only the outer walls remain standing on the cor of Anda and Arzobispo Sts.) Recollets' Iglesia de Nicolas, Lourdes, San Agustin (45) and Manila Cathedral (46). Only the last two survived WW II (see below for descriptions), and the decision not to rebuild the others is claimed to have taken the spirit and soul from the walled city.

There were also 3 convents, 2 palaces, 2 universities, and 88 government offices inside.

Access to the city was through seven gates each with a draw bridge over a 7-8ft (2m) deep moat, parts of which still exist. The portals (Spanish Puerta), were: Real (32), a part of which was modified into open air theaters where regular programs are presented (see chapter Art and Culture); del Parian (34); Isabela II (36); Postigo (38) renamed Pintong (Tag. door) which currently houses the Intramuros Police Detachment; de Sto. Domingo (65), and ravelin of the same name have been reconstructed Sta. Lucia (39) built during the time of Gov Gomez Perez Darmarinas, improved in 1782,bulldozed after WW II and restored; and a small river gate inside Fort Santiago. The perimeter of the wall is not only broken by the original gates but also by large gaps which were more recently provided to allow access to truck and car traffic. General Luna St. gap (near Puerto Real), Quezon gap (35) built for the car of the former President Quezon and opens onto Lawton, Aduna St gap (37), and Victoria gap (33).

The outer wall had major projecting bastions (baluarte) at each corner: de San Diego (42), de Maestranza, not yet rebuilt, de San Andres, de Dilao (61) formerly Baluarte de San Nicolas y De Carranza, de San Gabrial; and four within the fort proper: de Sta. Barbara, de San Lorenzo, de San Miguel, and de San Francisco (63) aka San Fernando de Dilao or San Lorenzo San Francisco, built to reinforce landward side of the wall between Puerta del Parian and Puerta Real in the late 18th century (reconstructed with cannon). Puerta del Parian was named Parian de Arroceros (Chinese Rice Dealer's Market). It was the official gate for the governors-general after the British occupation (1762-1764). Today it has been largely reconstructed and there is a foot-passage to Lawton. Puerta Isabel II opened in 1861 and named after Queen Isabel of Spain. A horse drawn trolley (tram, street-car) entered Intramuros through this portal which has been partially restored. There were a number of small bastions along the West wall.

Generally there was a detached fortification (ravelin) having two faces to protect the major bastion's flanks and one in front of each gate. Ravelins at gates had the same name as the gate. The Revellin de Recoletos (62) is an exception as it fronts no major gate but was built to defend the Baluarte de Dilao and de San Andres. It was named after the former nearby Recoletos Church and is now called Aurora Garden in honor of Commonwealth President Manuel Quezon. It has been largely rebuilt and can be entered from the inside wall through a small door in the wall.

Through the centuries many stones of the wall were taken away and used in other buildings. The moat was filled-in by the US in 1904 to reduce malaria. What was left was destroyed in World War II. In 1966, however, a reconstruction program was started. The restoration is still in progress, but some parts have been finished along Magallanes Drive. The park area surrounding the wall, which was once the moat, contains a public golf course, called Club Intramuros. There are also nicely situated public tennis courts along the ancient walls.

The Intramuros Administration was created in 1979 and has encouraged and regulated reconstruction. Near San Agustin Church several buildings have been erected in old Spanish style. Among them are Casa Manila, a museum depicting the lifestyle of 19th cen-tury Intramuros, Muralla, a restaurant with 19th century ambiance and El Amanecer.

El Amanecer at 744 Calle Real del Palacio (Gral. Luna St.) is a majestic reproduction of a 19th century town house. The building was made of hand hewn paving stones, wide board panels, massive adobe blocks and traditional capiz shell windows. The name El Amanacer, dawn's first light, is meant to symbolize new light on Philippine history and culture. The building houses: Silahis Art and Artifacts, Tradewinds Bookshop, Ilustrado Cafe and Restaurant, Chang Rong Antique Gallery, and Galeria de las Islas Philippine Folk and Genre Art. Near the corner of Bonifacio Drive and Burgos St is a loaded five-inch gun (43).

The College of San Juan de Letran (44) was founded by Diego de Santamaria in 1630. It absorbed the school of Juan Geronimo Guerrero in 1638. After it was destroyed by earthquake in 1645, the college was removed from the Parian to where it has remained since 1669. The building was remodeled in 1937.

The Governor's Palace (47) which today houses the Department of Education, Culture and Sports, served as a palace until 1863 when it was partially destroyed by earthquake. At that time, the residence of the governors was transferred to Malacanang.

Across the Plaza de Roma (51), Plaza McKinley under the US and Plaza Royal under the Spanish, are the ruins of what was formerly the Cabildo, or City Hall (52).

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