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Jan Garanoz
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Cambodia / Phnom Penh / The City

In spite of the recommendation of travel agencies and travel guides (all earning money from people traveling to Cambodia), it has to be mentioned that Phnom Penh is a very dangerous city, and Cambodia a very dangerous country.

The prevention of "ordinary" crime is a very low priority of the country's government, which is much more concerned with guarding its "democratic" and "human rights" credentials. (There is no capital punishment in Cambodia.)

Briton murdered in Phnom Penh

Here is another newspiece about the same event, apparently by Reuters. In ridiculously states:

"Despite its reputation for lawlessness, most violence against foreigners in the impoverished southeast nation, which is still recovering from decades of civil war including the Khmer Rouge genocide, is limited to street crime or assault."

Violence against foreigners is limited to street crime and assault? What else should it be? Does that not cover it all? It seems that an editor was involved who was very concerned with political correctness and did not want to undermine the country's tourism industry by stating the obvious: there is a considerable likelihood that a foreigner will become the victim of violent crime in Cambodia.

The politically correct report

Crossing
Photo: View of Phnom Penh's main traffic artery, Achar-Mean-Boulevard.

Phnom Penh is situated at the confluence of the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers with the Mekong. It was founded as a small monastery in 1372 by the rich Khmer woman Penh, after she had found four Buddha statues in a tree trunk on the banks of the Mekong. She set up the monastery on a hill near the bank of the Mekong. The Cambodian word for hill is Phnom. Therefore the name of the town correctly translates as Hill of Penh.

More cruel murders in Cambodia

Below a reference to another story on a foreigner murdered in Cambodia. The news story ends with the claim: "While muggings are common in Cambodia, where a sense of lawlessness and a gun culture remain after decades of war that ended in 1998, serious attacks on foreigners have been rare."

Indeed, I know many (and I do mean: many) foreigners who have been mugged in Cambodia, and many have been hurt physically, though not murdered). In Cambodia, even if one surrenders all valuables to a mugger, one gets a strike with a gun or another weapon as bonus. So, is such a mugging not a serious attack on a foreigner? Is it only serious when he or she is murdered? News editors who go out of their way not to treat a country "unfairly" by mentioning that crime is not that bad, are fooling potential Western travelers.

French National fatally stabbed in Cambodian robbery

Many foreigners suffer from violent assault in Cambodia. It's just that many do not bother to report to the police, as nothing will come out of that anyway. And the Western media has little interest in "ordinary" crime that does not end in murders.

Rather significantly Phnom Penh's history is founded on an episode, in which the Buddhist religion played a part, contrary to the Khmer capital of that time, Angkor, which was shaped, and literally so, by Hinduism. Nevertheless, Buddhism had, since the beginning of the 13th century, become the dominant religion. (In Southeast Asia both religions are entwined to a much higher degree than first appears to be the case. For instance, numerous Buddhist temples in Thailand house altars of Hindu deities, especially Brahma, and the details of the royal ploughing ceremony in Bangkok are determined by Brahman, not Buddhist, palace priests... just like Thai coronation modalities).

In 1434, after the Siamese conquest of Angkor in 1431, the Khmer nobility unwilling to submit to Siamese overlords fled from Angkor and established Phnom Penh as the new Khmer capital, just 64 years after the Buddhist monastery had been founded on Penh Hill. However, the Khmer never succeeded in setting up a new kingdom to come close to the glamour of Angkor.

In fact, for long periods of time the Khmer kingdom centered in Phnom Penh wasn't a sovereign country but alternatively a satellite state of, or directly ruled by, the Vietnamese or the Thais. For more than 400 years - until the French made Cambodia their protectorate - the art of politics in Phnom Penh was just an exercise of balancing between the two powerful neighbours.

On April 17, 1864, the Cambodian king Norodom accepted for his country the status of a French protectorate. King Norodom expected the French to protect Cambodia from the neighbouring countries Siam (Thailand) and Vietnam.

Colonial architecture
Photo: French colonial architecture, though today much of it in bad repair, dots the city.

However, the French protectors did not prevent politically strong Siam from temporarily annexing western parts of the country, including the town of Battambang. Nevertheless, by recognizing French rule, King Norodom preempted moves of Siam and Vietnam to entirely divide his country between them. In past centuries the loss of territory to Vietnam had been more significant. The Mekong delta, or rather the entire present-day South Vietnam, had been settled by Cambodians until well into the 18th century.

During almost 90 years of colonial rule the French reshaped and extended Phnom Penh according to their architectural taste. They built broad boulevards and the city received a touch of Mediterranean atmosphere.

During the Vietnam war the city grew to more than 2 Million inhabitants, creating an atmosphere of an overcrowded refugee camp rather than a French metropolis.

On April 17, 1975, 20 years after the end of French colonial rule, the Khmer Rouge marched into Phnom Penh. Within weeks the city was emptied, its population forced into provincial labour camps; Phnom Penh became a ghost town.

After an increasing number of incidents at the Cambodian-Vietnamese border, Vietnamese troops move into Cambodia and on January 7, 1979, take Phnom Penh. Since then, many of the city's former inhabitants have returned, and new folks have arrived. The city now, once more, counts over a Million inhabitants.

Hotel Le Royal
Photo: Phnom Penh's Hotel Le Royal, where journalists have been based during the Vietnam War, is closed since June 1994; the hotel's swimming pool has been taken over by local children. The owners of the Raffles Hotel in Singapur intend to renovate and extend Le Royal to turn it into a luxury hotel of some 200 rooms.

Since the signing of the Paris Peace Treaty in 1991, Phnom Penh experienced a great economic boom, despite the civil war still smoldering in far-off parts of the country. Although streets and canalization - destroyed by the Khmer Rouge - are not yet fully repaired, a large number of modern hotels have been built.






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This page: http://www.asiatour.com/cambodia/e-03phno/ec-phn10.htm
Created: September 1, 1995  - Last updated: January 31, 2008